Laos is a landlocked country covering 236,800 square kilometers, approximately the same size as Ecuador or Great Britain.  It comprises mostly mountains and plateaus.  The Mekong River flows through western and southern regions and forms a natural border with Thailand and Myanmar.  On its banks nestle most of Laos' important cities, such as the capital Vientiane and the former royal capital, Luang Prabang. 

Rugged mountains cover more than 75 percent of the country.  The vegetation is diverse and rich comprising tropical and subtropical species, from mango and palms to Hardwoods. About half of the country is still covered with primary forests.

Two monsoons set the rhythm of rural life in Laos. The cool, dry, north-eastern monsoon blows from about November to March and brings little rain. From May to early October, the south-western monsoon picks up moist air from over the Indian Ocean, bringing strong winds, high humidity, and heavy rains throughout the country. The weather is transitional between the seasons, but even during the wet season it rarely rains in the morning. Most of the rain comes in afternoon downpours. Visitors should be warned that roads in the northeastern regions in particular can become flooded during the rains. Travel in these areas should be avoided during the peak of the wet seasons.     

Laos is a poor country with a still undeveloped economic infrastructure, and a largely uneducated workforce.  Agri-culture, mostly subsistence rice farming, dominates the economy employing 54 percent of the population and providing 52 percent of the national income. 

The first recorded history of the Lao begins with King Fa Ngum, by legend the 23rd successor of Khoun Lo, who first united Laos in 1353.  He established his capital at Luang Prabang and ruled a kingdom called Lan Xang (literally, ‘million elephants’) that covered much of present-day Thailand and Laos.  He also established Buddhism as the state religion. 

In the 17th century Lan Xang entered a period of decline caused by dynastic struggles and conflicts with Burma, Siam (now Thailand), Vietnam, and the Khmer Kingdom.  By the 18th century, the Siamese and Vietnamese kingdoms were competing for control of Laos.  In the 19th century, the Siamese dominated much of what is now Laos and divided it into principalities centered on Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champasak.  Late in the century, the French, who already controlled present-day Vietnam, supplanted them.  In 1899 France established protectorates and direct rule over all of the principalities, and Laos became part of French Indochina.  The Franco-Siamese treaty of 1907 defined the present Lao boundary with Thailand. 

During World War II the Japanese occupied Indochina.  A Lao resistance group, Lao Issara, was formed to prevent the return of the French.  Independence was achieved in 1953 but conflict persisted between royalist, neutralist and communist fractions.  The US began bombing North Viet-namese troops on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Eastern Laos in 1964, escalating the conflict between the royalist Vientiane government and the communist Pathet Lao who fought alongside the North Vietnamese.  By the time a ceasefire was negotiated in 1973, Laos had the dubious reputation of being the most heavily bombed country on a per capita basis in the history of warfare.

Places to visit...

In 1563 King Setthathirat made the riverside city of Vientiane the capital of Laos.  In those days it was a small, fortified city on the banks of the Mekong with a palace and two wats, That Luang and Wat Phra Kaeo.  The city became prosperous from the surrounding fertile plains and taxes levied on trade going upriver.  Today, Vientiane is a spacious and charming city.  It is South-east Asia's smallest capital and has only about 500,000 citizens - which makes it the most tranquil and laid-back capital of Asia.  It lacks the usual hustle and bustle and amazes the traveler with its serene temples and gracious colonial villas.  Countless temples and pagodas with important Thai and Khmer shrines and relics are a mirror of the countries’ checkered past.  There are numerous good restaurants and excellent shopping opportunities for Lao handicrafts at the Morning Market and a variety of specialist shops.

The ancient capital of Laos, Luang Prabang, is a city of golden temple spires, faded French colonial architecture and diverse hill tribes.  Situated on the Mekong river, the city is nestled in a stunning river valley surrounded by dramatic mountains.  Luang Pra-bang was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 because of its well-preserved remnants of the ancient Lane Xang Kingdom, many of which date from the 13th to the 15th centuries. However, it is the peaceful charm and relaxed atmosphere of the town, with its thriving hill tribe population, which never fails to enchant. Luang Prabang's surroundings have much to offer as well; excursions include the Pak Ou Caves, reached via a pleasant boat trip up the Mekong River.  These ancient caves contain thousands of Buddha images.  Other interesting excursions include visits to Ban Phanom, a nearby weaving village, and the Kuang Si waterfalls.

One of the last mysteries of Asia lies here, in the form of over 300 giant stone jars, apparently carved out of solid rock and scattered around a nearby plateau, aptly named the "Plain of Jars." The jars vary in size from 1 to 3.25 meters high and weigh up to six tons each.  There are several different theories as to the purpose of the jars, which are estimated to be 2,500 to 3,000 years old.  Local legend relates that King Khoon Chuong and his troops from South China had a huge party after their victory over the wicked Chao Angka and had the jars made to brew enormous quantities of Lao rice whisky (lau-lao).  A trip to this area is still worthwhile and is enhanced by visits to the local ethnic minority villages of the Hmong.  A trip to the Tham Piew caves and the hot springs nearby are worth an extra day.

Pakse is synonymous with Wat Phou, just as Siem Reap is with Angkor in Cambodia.  The founder of the first Khmer Empire, Jayavarman II, who built Angkor, also built Wat Phou.  It is much smaller than Angkor, but about 30 years older and at times was the Khmer capital.  After Angkor, Wat Phou is one of the cultural highlights of Laos and South-East Asia and was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 2003.

Pakse is a busy commercial town built by the French early this century as an administrative center for the South.  The many colonial buildings lend an air of old world charm.  Excursions from Pakse include the Bolaven plateau, with its many ethnic minorities and coffee plantations.

In addition, the “Four thousand islands” on the Cambodian border area can also be reached from Pakse.  The Mekong River at this point is about 8.5 miles wide and encompasses about 4,000 islands during the dry season and about half of that during the rainy season.  This unique landscape forms one of the most impressive sights of this region.  One of the highlights is South-east Asia's largest waterfall, Khon Phapheng.

The main tourist centers—Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, boast a good selection of hotels and guesthouses. Outside these cities, accom-modation is available in the form of village hostels, at a more basic level. Camping facilities are few.

The official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane.  As an official language it has successfully become the lingua franca between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos.  Lao is a monosyllabic, tonal language but it contains many polysyllabic words borrowed from Indian, Pali and Sanskrit as well as words from Khmer.  It has 6 tones, 33 consonants, and 28 vowels.  Lao is also spoken in north-east Thailand and north Cambodia, which was originally part of the kingdom of Lan Xang.  There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further sub-dialects. 

In colonial days French was introduced in the country and is still spoken in towns today, particularly by the older generation.  Increasingly, the government is using English and the younger generations in the towns are also learning to speak English.

The local currency is the kip.  The US dollar and the Thai baht are very popular alternatives that are widely accepted, especially for bigger purchases.  It is not unusual to be quoted a price in kip, pay in US dollars and receive Thai baht as change.  US dollars and Thai baht can be changed at hotels, banks or any foreign exchange shop licensed by the Bank of Lao PDR.  Credit cards are accepted at more and more shops and restaurants in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.  All major banks, even in provincial towns, accept traveler’s cheques and currencies other than US dollars or Thai baht.  It is best to carry US dollar bills in small denominations.

Travelers Cheques. All major banks throughout Laos, as well as the bigger hotels in Vientiane, will change traveller’s cheques for US dollars or kip.

Credit Cards. Visa, Master Card and American Express payment facilities are increasingly being set up throughout the country.  A surcharge is usually added.  It is possible to get cash US dollars at the bank, for which a surcharge applies.

Lao food is spicy and delicious.  There are many similarities between Lao and Thai food, although the former is slightly influenced by Chinese cuisine.  Lao dishes are distinguished by the use of aromatic herbs and spices.  Rice, especially sticky rice served in small bamboo containers, is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo.  Lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic taste, and various fermented fish condiments are used to salt the food.
A traditional Lao dish is laap (also meaning ‘luck’ in Lao), made from raw fish or meat crushed into a paste, marinated in lemon juice and mixed with chopped mint.  It is called laap sin if it has a meat base and laap paa if it's fish based.

There is also a well-ingrained Vietnamese culinary tradition, and Chinese food is never hard to find.  Laos has inherited a sophisticated and tasty colonial legacy.  French cuisine is widely available, with street cafes serving delectable fresh croissants, baguettes, pain au chocolat and a selection of sticky pastries.

Laos is an ideal place for buying handicrafts and souvenirs.  Best buys from Laos are hill-tribe crafts and textiles.  Antique textiles from north Laos are occasionally available.  There are a wide variety of modern materials that are used to make the pha sin, the Lao sarong, and pha baeng, or shawl, worn by Lao women. 

Making silverware is a traditional craft in Laos - most of it is in the form of jewelry and small silver pots.  Chunky antique tribal jewelry, bangles, pendants, belts and earrings are often sold in markets in the main towns or antique shops in Vientiane.  The tribal belts (sai ao) that are part of the traditional dress of Lao women are especially popular with tourists.

Craftsmen in Laos still produce carvings for temples and coffins.  Designs are usually traditional, with a religious theme.  Craftsmen produce carved panels and statues for tourists that are available in outlets in Vientiane.  Elephant statues ranging in size from small to huge are also very popular. The export of antiques, Buddha statues and important cultural or historical items from Laos is prohibited.